Official Rules and Guidelines

Rule 1: Hindquarters
The first rule that I ever was introduced to was about chairs. “If you didn’t bring a chair to camp then don’t sit in one unless you’re invited to.” Our camp has plenty of boxes to take the place of a chair. Grab one.

Also, please don’t ask others to sit in a chair, and think that you being polite excuses you. The only chair a you can rightfully allow others to sit in is one you brought yourself.

This rule goes for your “guests/family” too. No we’re not trying to be mean. But we spend our time running in wool to put on a show. Most of us will offer a chair for them to sit in, but let us have that pleasure, please.

Rule 2: Sharing
In our ‘family’ we spend a lot of time living off of what we bring ourselves. Sharing is inevitable. No matter how long you’ve reenacted, you’ll forget something. You’ll not be prepared for something that happens. It is great to know that your friends will help you when needed.

But be careful. Don’t cross the line from sharing to mooching. Sharing is not a one way street. Rule number two is punishable by “death by shunning.” For it is generally, the moochers who gloat about how little they have and how fast a departure they can make.

Rule 3: Rank, Event Attendance, Unit meetings.
We have a "basic" requirement for membership, one event a year, and dues payment.. Those who do not attend several events a year, should take the initiative to contact active members, so we know they’re still interested. Those holding rank must attend at least 50% of the unit’s events. Each rank holder is encouraged to have a privates jacket to be used at times when their wearing rank is inappropriate, for whatever reason.

A unit meeting at any “company size event,” at which at least 50% of the the active members are present, shall be fully empowered to conduct business for the entire unit... to vote on membership, regulations, future events, money spending, or any proper matter.

If you’re going to miss, ask the Captain what is on the agenda for the meeting. Maybe you have an item of business, ask a pard to bring it up and give your opinion on it. No this isn’t “perfect” but we’re all going to miss some time, so we’ll just do the best we can and try to carry on. Minor types of business and expenses can be covered by a meeting of all present rank holders, provided that all are in agreement on the matter. If any rank holder disagrees with the idea, the matter will be addressed at a meeting of the present membership. All unit meetings are open to recruits and associates, however only current members have a vote on issues.

Rule 4: Drill and Battle
Except in extreme circumstances if you don’t drill with the unit, you can’t expect to fight with the unit. Generally drill is at 10 am on Saturday and Sunday. At "large events/ nationals etc.” that may change due to the structure we’re placed in.

Rule 5: Safety
No one is forced to do an action they feel is unsafe. Every member, and recruit, is empowered to point out safety hazards they see around them, and to take appropriate actions. If “friendly discussion” doesn’t solve the problem, members can enlist help from other members or rankers. As a last resort, unsafe individuals will be barred from participation with the unit. Blank cartridges should be no more than 70 grains. Revolvers may not use wadding of any type. Cream of wheat and/or zipwax are the ONLY allowable substances.
At NO time, shall powder be poured down a barrel. And if you observe ANYONE doing it, report it up the chain.

Rule 6: Camp Duties
There will be times when activities will need to be done in camp. A ranker may ask for volunteers. Please help them out. Duties are just something else to be shared, based on fairness, politeness etc. ... if you really feel you’re doing more than your fair share, SPEAK UP! Talk about it calmly, don’t wait until it’s ready to explode. If you want to do more, ask. There are a lot of things needing to be done and if a lot of people do them, fewer people get burned out.

One duty is the fire pit. Generally dug by an “advance” party. However, that same party shouldn’t be the one covering the pit at the weekend’s closure.

Rule 7: Politics
No group discussions of ANYTHING modern in camp. If you just HAVE to have a modern discussion, then take it outside of the camp (not to a tent). Actually, modern discussions of anything should be avoided. If it happened after 1865, leave it at home. If you want to be modern, stay home.

Rule 8: Colors
2NCMI proudly portrays both a CS and a US impression, and we all proud to be United States citizens. Morning Colors is about being a United States citizen, if you aren't proud of that, find another unit.

Rule 9: Farbisms
2NCMI has always attempted to have an impression which was “as close to accurate” as possible. It’s always been an understanding, what is inside your tent is your own business. Farby items should not come out of your tent, nor should they protrude, from your tent. Many “cover” ice boxes outside their tent, should this be your practice, see to it they don’t show when not in use. If you need a soda, or other canned beverage, then pour it in your tent and then come out with it in a period cup.

Sure there will be times (esp. group meals) where there may be “farby” items out in the open, but each member is charged with keeping our company street authentic in looks.

Farby items which would be on your person, Sun glasses, watches, “tinted” glasses etc. Should be replaced with more authentic reproductions (period frames for glasses, pocket watch).

Camp boxes, tents, equipment. Here is the bottom line, if it is not yours, you NEVER can open a box to get something unless the OWNER says it is okay PRIOR to you opening the box. The same for tents. If a flap is closed, do not open it without asking. If it is tied, THE DOOR IS LOCKED, the same as your home. All other equipment, utensils, weapons, etc. If it isn't yours, don't touch it.

Rule 10: Family Sharing
We have a lot more associates in civilian status than most companies. While family members are welcome, let’s remember our company street is supposed to represent a military company street. Civilians, please keep a low profile when spectator hours are upon us.

Parents, if you’re going to bring your children, please keep them your responsibility. The company street isn’t a good place for “kid activities,” such as running, hollering, jumping around. Proximity is the key here. Rule 10 does not bar children or women (nor intend to) just asks that our civilians respect the fact that we’re portraying a military organization and if they can keep a “low profile” that will help us a lot with our impression. Some events we will have a “refugee” area which will be separate from the company street.

Also, except in certain circumstances, wall tents and flies should be separate from the company street. The military company street can have a fly at the head (HQ area) and a fly at the foot (Kitchen area) but no others, in normal circumstances. If you feel like you have to have a fly or wall tent to survive, plan on camping in a civilian or refugee area away from the military street.

Rule 11: Food and cooking
If you didn't bring it and fix it, don't expect to share in eating it. One or two people cooking for 10 or 12 is not the way to do things. In a cavalry troop, 4 troopers were mess mates, so if any of you want to get together and buddy up, please do so. In general, there will be a grate to cook on, but bring your own pots and pans, coffee pots, knives, etc., or do without. There will be ONE fire to share for every 16 troops. If someone is cooking, give him the space to cook so he can get out of the way and let the next group cook.

Rule 12: Be prepared at all times
It is your responsibility to be prepared for action at moment's notice. As soon as weapons are safety inspected, they are to be readied for action. That includes loading pistols, getting caps and rounds in your belt, having a full canteen, and staging all that gear where you can find it at 12 noon or midnight.

FIRST CALL
That will be sounded 15 minutes prior to when you should be standing ready to fall in, fully dressed for battle. Canteens full, powder and caps loaded, pistols, all your uniform on, ready for immediate action. In this outfit, there is no Last Call, or 'come on when you can', the next call you hear will be

FALL IN
Don't rely on the 15 minute grace period, you may not get it. If we have already formed and counted off prior, then fall in exactly like you were, if not, get into a single line, shoulder to shoulder, facing the Captain or OIC.

Guidelines

Boots are preferred. Typically cavalry style boots come up to at least mid calf, with some covering the knees with a raised front. Historically, they had leather soles with a squared off front toe with one-piece uppers. Some acceptable alternatives include English style riding boots, that cover the calves, have a more rounded toe and the uppers are a two-piece design. Currently East German style military boots are acceptable but the trouser cuffs should be worn outside the boot. They are constructed with rounded toes and two-piece uppers. Soles are rubber and cleated, with the outside of the entire boot having a grainy texture. Harness style boots are acceptable, but must have the leather harness straps removed. They have a squared off toe, leather soles and have two-piece style uppers. Typically they only go up to just below mid calf. Brogans are historically accurate as well and are an acceptable alternative to boots. If wearing Brogans, the trouser cuffs should not be tucked into the socks. That practice is more of a myth generated by re-enactors than it is historic fact. Under no circumstances are pointed toe cowboy style boots or hiking boots acceptable.

Wool socks are the both historically accurate and most practical types of socks. The wool will wick the moisture away from your feet better than cotton. Wool sportsman style socks with the red band around the top can be worn, but care should be taken to make sure that the red band does not show. Cotton socks can be worn because they won't be seen this is left to the discretion of the wearer, but caution is advised especially when long marches are involved.

Trousers:
The most widely acceptable and historically accurate trousers are the sky blue wool uniform trousers. They come in both riding style and Infantry style and both are acceptable for a Cavalry impression. The sky blue color was regular issue for the Union and is O.K. for a starter Confederate impression. There are some wool trousers available in different shades of blue that may be acceptable for a Union impression, but to play it safe and always be correct, we recommend sticking to the kersey or sky blue wool uniform trousers. Once you have purchased other required items, you will want to look into getting a different color of trousers for your Confederate impression.

Acceptable alternatives include the jean or broad cloth gray trousers or any wool uniform style trousers that are butternut or a shade of gray will work. Other styles include canvas or jean cloth riding britches that were common in civilian life at that time. Again these are acceptable for a Confederate impression only. Remember that the wool will help wick the moisture away from your body in the summer and are warmer in the winter. Zippers and snaps of any kind are unacceptable and should never be worn. Neither is any kind of knit or modern blend type materials. Trousers should not have belt loops or be worn with a waist type belt ever. Suspenders should be the button type only. Both the stretchy type and the canvas style are acceptable materials for suspenders. Colors can vary as well as patterns. The main thing to remember about color and pattern selection is that, if chosen properly, no one should notice your suspenders; they should just blend in with the rest of your uniform.

Shirts:
Any style of shirt pattern dated from the 1860's back will work fine. Buttons that were common for that time period were made from a variety of materials including bone, wood and tin. Plastic buttons, zippers and snaps of any kind are unacceptable and should be avoided. Pockets are optional but were not common during this time period. The most common type of material for the shirt was cotton or muslin but other materials can be used such as canvas or light wool so long as the material is not of modern origin such as any knit or blend type material. Solid colors that aren't very bright are the safest way to go, but patterns and colors are historically accurate as well.

Coats:
The most versatile style of Union coat you can get is the four-button sack coat. The time period that we are depicting is mid-war eastern theatre. The four-button sack coat was a very common and generic style of coat, which is always acceptable for a Federal impression. The sack coat comes to just below the waistline and has four buttons on the front. Pockets on the inside are optional, but come in handy for carrying billfolds and tobacco accessories. Another option is the shell jacket. It comes to just above the waistline and is also referred to as a cadet jacket. The number of buttons varies and if given a choice, you should choose to get one that is lined. Yellow piping should be kept to minimum. Remember the more generic it is, the better off you'll be because some events put restrictions on colors and trim. For the Union impression, only dark blue is acceptable for coat color.

A Confederate impression on the other hand has more choices. There are numerous shades of Grey available to choose from, such as Richmond Grey, Tuscaloosa Grey and Butternut to name a few. All are acceptable for a Confederate Cavalry, mid war, eastern theatre impression. The style of coat varies too, and again the choice is purely a personal one. If you have a choice as to whether or not to get a jacket that is lined or unlined, always go for the lined as a first choice. You can always take your coat off when it's hot, but if you don't have it, you can't put it on when it's cold. Officers can wear frock coats and under some circumstances a civilian type frock can be worn for a Confederate impression. Keep in mind that you are depicting a Civil War era soldier. Ill-fitting and raggedy coats were very period and common.

Hats:
There are several styles of appropriate hats that can be worn for either side. Hat choice is mainly a personal selection, and is left up to the individual. The most generic and preferred style would be the black slouch hat. This is acceptable headgear for both sides. The crown is either slightly rounded or flat The wider brim helps keep rain off when raining and heat in when it's cold. It also keeps the sun off in the extreme heat of summer. Most slouches that start life out as black rarely stay that way. When they turn colors over the years, it is not only acceptable, for both Union and Confederate impressions, but very historically accurate.

Cowboy style hats are not acceptable and should be avoided. If desired, this type of hat can be steamed and re-formed to match the styling of a slouch hat, but can not have a modern headband. For a Confederate impression you can have different colors that are acceptable, such as Grey or some shades of Brown. But for the Federal soldier, only black slouch hats can be worn. Hardee Hats are historically accurate and when worn over the years take on a weather beaten, war torn look of a real cavalry campaign hat.

Bummers, or forage caps, can be worn a majority of the time, however there have been events in the past that restricted all cavalry to wearing only black slouch hats, no kepis or bummers. Bummer style hats were worn by a lot of cavalry troopers for the purpose of holding their loot of fruit and vegetables that were foraged along the way, thus the name "forage" hats.

Kepis are acceptable, however, were not as common among enlisted men during the war. The Kepi should not be your first choice of hats. You will also see some wheel hats, or mechanics hats. These were made popular during the Mexican War and carried over. Again, hat selection is a matter of personal taste but you will never go wrong with a black slouch hat.

Some events will also restrict the brass that is worn on hats, such as company designation or crossed sabers. But for the most part, this is acceptable and is the exception rather than the rule. Large feathers and/or plumes should be avoided at all costs.

Accessories:
Timepieces must be period. This means pocket watches only. Under no circumstance should a wristwatch be worn in camp or on the field.

Eyewear should either be glasses with period style frames or contacts only. If you have glasses with modern style frames or tinted lenses, you should consider wearing contacts for events.

No flashy jewelry should be visible such as rings with big stones, gold chain necklaces, or ear rings for men. Wedding bands and rings with Masonic like emblems are both historically accurate and acceptable. Necklaces made with a flattened mini ball with your name and company designation, on a leather string are historically accurate as well.

Lighters should be kept out of sight from all spectators. Matches are the preferred method of lighting a fire. Tobacco products should be as period as possible. Cigars, Pipes and chewing tobacco were all a vital part of everyday life for the Civil War soldier on campaign. Modern chewing tobacco containers should be kept out of sight at all times. You could easily transfer it to a box or pouch that was period. The same goes for pipe tobacco. There are several options including tins and leather pouches that can be used to hide the plastic bag that it comes in. Modern cigarettes with filters should not be used when spectators are in camp. All butts must be disposed of in the fire and not left on the ground. Plastic wrappers on cigars must also be disposed of out of sight from spectators.

Drinks should be poured into a period cup inside of your tent before entering the company street. No modern type cans, such as the aluminum soda cans, should be visible in camp. If you are using a tin can, consider making up a period dummy label. If not, make sure the modern label is peeled off. Bottles that are visible or put out on display, must be of the cork type variety. Screw top and even bottle capping weren’t invented yet. The brown or pottery/crock type glassware was more prevalent, but other colors, such as the small clear medicine bottles often used for keeping sugar or salt in, and the green bottles with the cork attached with a wire assembly, are acceptable.

Basic Gear
ASK BEFORE YOU BUY!

As a general rule of thumb, if you aren't an officer, don't dress like one. Play your part. Stay away from all the flashy yellow hat cords and brass, research before you buy, and in all situations, ask before you buy, mistakes can be costly. Weapons are the biggest expense. Choose wisely and question whether it really is a bargain. Ask your pards to check it for you.

• Uniform - Federal jacket, Confederate jacket, trousers, shirt, suspenders, hat
• black cavalry saber belt with cartridge and cap boxes
• pistol, remington or colt, worn butt first on your RIGHT side
• carbine - recommend a sharps or a musketoon, something carried by cavalry troops.
• carbine sling
• boots, then brogans
• canteen, required ALWAYS
• black tarred haversack
• tent, no fly, HQ and mess area have flys
• mess kit items
• saber, low priority, but should eventually get one